Tips for Black Skin Care

How Dark Skin Is Different

Fundamentally, everyone's skin is the same. It's made of the same types of cells and the same three layers: the protective top layer called the epidermis, the supple middle layer called the dermis, and a deeper layer of subcutaneous fat. Everyone also has about the same number of melanocytes, special cells that make a pigment called melanin. It's melanin that gives skin its color. People with dark skin have more melanin than people with light skin. Good care for black skin means being aware of other differences and similarities, too.

Don't Forget the Sunscreen

Black skin tends to wrinkle later than white skin does, but that doesn't mean it's ok to skip the sunscreen. Limiting time in the sun, avoiding mid-day rays, and using sunscreen diligently will help hold back the years.

Also, don't forget that sunscreen protects against skin cancer. The high amount of melanin in black skin absorbs UV rays and helps reduce the risk, but black people are definitely not immune to skin cancer.

Treat Acne Gently

There's nothing unique about the causes of acne in black skin. Both teens and adults get acne when bacteria settle in clogged sebaceous glands, and the same treatments work on both black and white skin. However, acne scars can be more of a problem in deeply pigmented skin. Acne can leave temporary dark spots called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Black skin is especially susceptible to these spots, which take months to disappear.

To help ward off these scars, treat pimples gently. Don't pick, squeeze, or scrub. If necessary, use acne medicine to minimize outbreaks.

Moisturize

Dryness tends to be more noticeable in dark than in light skin. Dry skin may appear ashy or gray. Extreme dry skin, such as the patches caused by eczema, can lead to large areas of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These blotches can take months to years to disappear.

Choose a moisturizer that meets your skin's needs. Some moisturizers can aggravate acne, so look for one labeled "non-comedogenic." This means it won't clog pores. If your skin is sensitive, also choose one without any fragrances or dyes. Products labeled "hypoallergenic" are designed for people with allergic or sensitive skin. Discontinue any product that irritates your skin or aggravates eczema.

Minimize Scars

If dark spots do appear, they can be treated with over-the-counter or prescription bleaching creams. Hydroquinone is a common ingredient. These creams work slowly, so don't expect results right away. But don't use the creams for too long, either: long-term use can cause a different discoloration of the skin. A dermatologist can help you decide on timing and on how strong a cream to use.

Black skin also has a tendency to form keloids, which are raised, rubbery or shiny scars that appear where skin was injured. To minimize the chance of keloids, avoid piercings or tattoos and get a dermatologist's advice about caring for any wounds.

Ban the Bumps

Black skin, especially very dark skin, is susceptible to a condition called dermatosis papulosa nigra, also known as "flesh moles." These dark brown bumps are harmless, but they can be embarrassing or irritating. They're about 1-5mm in size, generally appear flattened, are most common on the forehead and jaw area, and don't bleed, weep, or crust over. They can also appear on the chest, back, neck, and trunk.

If they're bothersome they can be removed. Techniques include freezing, using electricity to destroy them, and cutting the spots away with a special tool. Removal should always be done by a doctor. This is important both to make sure the diagnosis is correct and to minimize scarring.

Use Caution with Cosmetic Procedures

Laser treatments are increasingly popular for wrinkle treatment, hair removal, and other cosmetic procedures. This brings up one of the most important tips for black skin care: if you want to have a laser treatment, find someone who is knowledgeable about black skin. The risk of skin discoloration from laser treatment is significantly higher in dark skin than in light skin. Laser hair removal is trickier in black skin, too: using the wrong laser can cause blistering and scarring, not to mention failure to remove the hair. Make sure your doctor uses a laser that's right for black skin.

More Tips for Black Skin Care

To learn more about special issues with black skin and find additional tips for black skin care, visit the Skin of Color page at the American Academy of Dermatology.

Also check out the LoveToKnow article on Black Skin Care.